Roca Verde : Teverga
After arriving in Madrid and enjoying the local eats, sights and drinks, my girlfriend and I grabbed our rental car and headed north. We rented a station wagon from Firefly for only about 700 euro for the month (booked at doyouspain.com). The long drive through dry rolling hills finally brings you into the fairy tale “Green Spain”.
A lot of Asturias has a strange feel about it, as if it were confused if it should in fact belong to the jungle, or the alps. Massive limestone walls loom over tight valley floors lined with luscious ferns, flowers and stinging nettles, as thick, misty clouds dance along the high walls. Late spring showers here are easily ignored as summer comes into season and the days and sunshine grow longer. It's a wonderfully happy place to be. Some days you could even swear that time stops half way through the day to give you a chance to enjoy the views, take another shot at your route, or simply breathe in the fresh air a bit longer.
Life here moves slowly, it is a constant battle of the perpetual hangover and bloated stomach. I thought surely I would lose weight here but the shelves of every store are stocked with cheap wines, incredible meats and cheeses, and of course fresh, plump veggies. Not only that, but every store owner, waiter or waitress is happy to stuff you full of whatever you are willing to get your hands on. The people here are so happy to share their land, food, traditions, or whatever it may be with you; and it's truly hard to want to leave such an amazing place.
Anyways, on to the climbing....
Most days we wake up around 10 or so and start climbing by 12, because…well, why not? Early breezes or sunshine knock most of the morning dew off the approach trails and rain or shine there is climbing here, and all of it is good.
Our first venue has been Teverga. The main parking lot is everything you could ask for, free camping, water, showers, toilets, the works; and a lot of the climbing is accessible via a short walk from camp. All of this remains possible because of the local club here (Grupo de Montaña y Escalada Aguja de Sobia); they are all incredibly friendly and close knit, be sure to thank these guys for their hard work and dedication to this place and donate what you can. New routes go up all the time and it's all due to the effort of this group wanting to bring more climbing and climbers in to this region.
We started our climbing by warming up to the rock of Muro Techo. We kept things easy and stayed mostly in the realm of 6’s, most felt a bit polished but not terribly so and consisted of fun technical climbing. If techy is in your wheelhouse definitely plan to spend some time here. This sector stays dry in rain but be prepared to get your approach shoes muddy if you go.
It didn't take us long though to explore the tufas of Bovedas and El Covachon after the rain rolled in. The caves of Bovedas are an easy 10-15 minute walk and host some really amazing rock. The routes here have some more technical climbing to them, but so is the way of most of Roca Verde. There are a few easier routes but I would say come prepared for upper 6's, 7's and up. A few good tufa learners were Bombé Violent (corto) 6c+ and Piden Trabayu (corto) 7a, for those like us who'd never seen a tufa before. Nearby Bovedas you will also find Pared Negra, host to many hard routes as well but a very beautiful wall, starting at first vertical then into overhanging on the left and vertical/caves on the right. Here I have found one of my favorite routes of the trip, Carioca 7b. With a superb technical face crux followed by some powerful climbing, if it's within your means it is a must do.
The grand cave of Covachon is another must do on the Teverga tick list. When we first arrived in the parking lot my jaw dropped at the sight of this massive hole. It is a crown jewel in the side of the mountain at Teverga. I'll admit I am not yet strong enough for the majority of the routes here but it is still worth going to get on the few 7a+'s or the 7b+, Espolón Marley. I have not yet red pointed at 7b+ but Espolón Marley is fantastic to try your hand at if you climb in the grade. The route is a maze of overhung tufas and requires powerful movement, but will surely leave a grin on your face. The rest of the cave is 8a and up and looks absolutely fantastic, definitely a great rainy day crag; just be sure to bring a spare pair of pants if it's wet outside as the approach will surely leave your first pair sopping (trust me).
A bit farther past El Covachon is the higher wall of Planeta X. It is a bit of a hike to get here at about 35-45 min but it is a beautiful approach and well worth your time. On sunny days be sure to take a late morning call and a long breakfast as it goes into shade around 2:00pm. There are a handful of 6's, 7's and 8's that are all fantastic. Maizón seems to be the best suited warm up for the wall at 6b, but is a fantastic route, climbing through handlebars of fist sized pockets and what I thought to be a pumpy finish. My favorite route of the wall was Estado Policial 7a+. It seemed as though this route belonged in the Red River Gorge, requiring endurance and power while pulling through fingery pockets but half way up the wall you find yourself resting in a giant hueco. Even the V to the right of the cave is worth an "end of the day burn". Nothing here is not worth getting on if it's in your realm of climbing and if your skin doesn't go first then the sunlight will, because you won't want to leave.
There is still plenty more here to discover and enjoy like, Entecampos, Placas del Sol, Pingalagua and more but the prior mentioned happened to be some of my favorites. Between the people, the sights, the food and of course the climbing, Teverga is absolutely worth the while and with every passing day, will become harder for you to leave.
A lot of Asturias has a strange feel about it, as if it were confused if it should in fact belong to the jungle, or the alps. Massive limestone walls loom over tight valley floors lined with luscious ferns, flowers and stinging nettles, as thick, misty clouds dance along the high walls. Late spring showers here are easily ignored as summer comes into season and the days and sunshine grow longer. It's a wonderfully happy place to be. Some days you could even swear that time stops half way through the day to give you a chance to enjoy the views, take another shot at your route, or simply breathe in the fresh air a bit longer.
Life here moves slowly, it is a constant battle of the perpetual hangover and bloated stomach. I thought surely I would lose weight here but the shelves of every store are stocked with cheap wines, incredible meats and cheeses, and of course fresh, plump veggies. Not only that, but every store owner, waiter or waitress is happy to stuff you full of whatever you are willing to get your hands on. The people here are so happy to share their land, food, traditions, or whatever it may be with you; and it's truly hard to want to leave such an amazing place.
Anyways, on to the climbing....
Most days we wake up around 10 or so and start climbing by 12, because…well, why not? Early breezes or sunshine knock most of the morning dew off the approach trails and rain or shine there is climbing here, and all of it is good.
Our first venue has been Teverga. The main parking lot is everything you could ask for, free camping, water, showers, toilets, the works; and a lot of the climbing is accessible via a short walk from camp. All of this remains possible because of the local club here (Grupo de Montaña y Escalada Aguja de Sobia); they are all incredibly friendly and close knit, be sure to thank these guys for their hard work and dedication to this place and donate what you can. New routes go up all the time and it's all due to the effort of this group wanting to bring more climbing and climbers in to this region.
We started our climbing by warming up to the rock of Muro Techo. We kept things easy and stayed mostly in the realm of 6’s, most felt a bit polished but not terribly so and consisted of fun technical climbing. If techy is in your wheelhouse definitely plan to spend some time here. This sector stays dry in rain but be prepared to get your approach shoes muddy if you go.
It didn't take us long though to explore the tufas of Bovedas and El Covachon after the rain rolled in. The caves of Bovedas are an easy 10-15 minute walk and host some really amazing rock. The routes here have some more technical climbing to them, but so is the way of most of Roca Verde. There are a few easier routes but I would say come prepared for upper 6's, 7's and up. A few good tufa learners were Bombé Violent (corto) 6c+ and Piden Trabayu (corto) 7a, for those like us who'd never seen a tufa before. Nearby Bovedas you will also find Pared Negra, host to many hard routes as well but a very beautiful wall, starting at first vertical then into overhanging on the left and vertical/caves on the right. Here I have found one of my favorite routes of the trip, Carioca 7b. With a superb technical face crux followed by some powerful climbing, if it's within your means it is a must do.
The grand cave of Covachon is another must do on the Teverga tick list. When we first arrived in the parking lot my jaw dropped at the sight of this massive hole. It is a crown jewel in the side of the mountain at Teverga. I'll admit I am not yet strong enough for the majority of the routes here but it is still worth going to get on the few 7a+'s or the 7b+, Espolón Marley. I have not yet red pointed at 7b+ but Espolón Marley is fantastic to try your hand at if you climb in the grade. The route is a maze of overhung tufas and requires powerful movement, but will surely leave a grin on your face. The rest of the cave is 8a and up and looks absolutely fantastic, definitely a great rainy day crag; just be sure to bring a spare pair of pants if it's wet outside as the approach will surely leave your first pair sopping (trust me).
A bit farther past El Covachon is the higher wall of Planeta X. It is a bit of a hike to get here at about 35-45 min but it is a beautiful approach and well worth your time. On sunny days be sure to take a late morning call and a long breakfast as it goes into shade around 2:00pm. There are a handful of 6's, 7's and 8's that are all fantastic. Maizón seems to be the best suited warm up for the wall at 6b, but is a fantastic route, climbing through handlebars of fist sized pockets and what I thought to be a pumpy finish. My favorite route of the wall was Estado Policial 7a+. It seemed as though this route belonged in the Red River Gorge, requiring endurance and power while pulling through fingery pockets but half way up the wall you find yourself resting in a giant hueco. Even the V to the right of the cave is worth an "end of the day burn". Nothing here is not worth getting on if it's in your realm of climbing and if your skin doesn't go first then the sunlight will, because you won't want to leave.
There is still plenty more here to discover and enjoy like, Entecampos, Placas del Sol, Pingalagua and more but the prior mentioned happened to be some of my favorites. Between the people, the sights, the food and of course the climbing, Teverga is absolutely worth the while and with every passing day, will become harder for you to leave.
Roca Verde: Asturias Oriente
Our second venue that we'd made our way to is the north eastern end of Asturias, otherwise known as Asturias Oriente. Unfortunately we weren't able to see as much as we would've liked but the few venues we did see were amazing. Our first stop was Poo de Cabrales.
As you make your way down the winding roads, over the still lush green mountains, suddenly a different kind of view greets you. The tight valley floors open up into vast farming lands with loads of cattle, whose ringing bells echo along the mountain sides. Views of high grey walls, sharp and rugged, pocketed with nestled snow overlook the 'Green Spain' from high above. From the upper end of Poo it becomes easy to get lost staring at the sheer beauty of the north face of 'Naranjo de Bulnes', within the Picos de Europa.
The cities around Poo certainly have a different feel from Teverga as well. Arenas de Cabrales (the largest town in the area) is a popular tourist destination and attracts those from all over to offer a taste of wilderness, yet still provides plenty of options for a luxurious stay. Though we camped out of our cars, the one must do in town is a stop by 'Chigre Orbayu' for a pitcher of Sidra Sangria. If you've heard about Asturias then you know the cider is a must do, and nothing beats a full day of climbing finished with an ice cold pitcher of this stuff. Besides the Sidra, the town is also famous for its cheese; a strong blue cheese that they store in a local cave, quite potent but also delicious.
Again, I could go on about the views and food, but on to the climbing...
Poo offers a steep and slick approach which shoots straight up to the lower crag, and once you've reached the top, narrowly escaping nearly landing on your ass and rolling back down to the parking lot, you'll be greeted with a pleasant barnyard belay. Yeah, it surely lives up to its name... BUT... With that being said, it's worth every step of every visit to climb here (I promise). We left after 4 or 5 days here and decided to come back, because the climbing is so superb.
The first wall you come to is Chorreras Abajo and Abojo Iz. Mostly in the 6's with some 7's peppered in, this spot is a great warm up for the day, as it stays in the shade for the morning. I can't say I had a particular favorite here but I certainly enjoyed the tufa stemming action of Poolymnos 6c and Entre Gargolas 6c. After 12:00 or 1:00 you'll want to move farther up the mountain, as things heat up quickly here. The walls of Horoscopo, Prima Juana and El Corralito are just a 10 minute walk past Abajo but receive the same sun, so be sure to hit these also before 1:00. We often avoided these walls due to a pesky herd of cattle that liked to hide in the shady belays; but some of the easier routes at Prima Juana are great for the novice climber, like the crag's namesake, La Prima Juana V+.
After snacking on the local Cabrales cheese and a quick siesta, the magnificent wall of Chorreras goes into the shade (~3:00pm). Long and steep, this wall is adorned with gorgeous tufas and has colorful black, blue, orange and white streaked limestone. Fat pinches, skinny pinches, fanned out stalactites and pockets are everywhere; and whether you want to pinch your way to glory or crimp your face off, this place has it all, even a gorgeous backdrop to drop your jaw at when you clip the chains and lower off.
The only route here that may not be worth doing is 'Megadeth' and it's only because of a bees nest just above the anchor; other than that, plan to spend most of your skin on this wall. My personal favorite was 'Kalima' 7b+, a thin pinching wrestling match of a route. After turning the corner to arrive at the base of the wall, the single skinny, white tufa that rides a line of bolts was the first thing my eyes were drawn to. It is a powerful dance back and forth over the main tufa for the first half of the route until you can crawl into a small hole and rest, followed by a chimney-like stem-fest to the anchors. For someone climbing around the same grades as myself or harder, I'd highly recommend this route.
On the other side of Arenas is a much different and smaller crag, Las Cabadas. Very novice friendly and well bolted, it boasts a good concentration of IV's, V's, 6's and even a couple 7's. Good for hot days before making the climb up to Poo, it stays in the shade all morning until about 1:00pm (as opposed to what the guidebook will tell you). The draw to this place may be the ease of moving from one side of the crag to the other without having to pack up your bag, or simply the amount of routes you can bag before making your exit (most routes are shorter than 15 meters). Certainly worth a visit if you are in the area to get a run of the wall from start to finish.
So, if you've got a shred of skin left and thought, "hmm....maybe a day at the beach?", pack your trunks and head for Cuevas del Mar. A 45 minute drive will land you at the foot of the cove; throw your harness over your swimsuit and enjoy a day of fun in the sun. I will say our expectations of the routes were pretty low at first and we thought we'd just climb here for the novelty of it, while enjoying a rest day, but the climbing on the right side of the cliff line was actually really enjoyable. When the tide comes in the belays stay dry but it feels pretty wild having the waves crash into the rocks underneath you. After the tide makes its way in, it's a pretty awesome beach to spend the rest of the day at just bumming out.
Like I said, we weren't able to make it everywhere we wanted, but the crags we were able to see and climb were definitely worth the visit. La Hermida has a lot to offer as well, Rumenes in particular, but we were there in late May and the tufas were all still quite wet. Overall though, Asturias Oriente is an amazing place to visit and I can't keep saying enough great things about Asturias in general. Everyone we met, whether at the crag or in town, couldn't have been more kind and welcoming and the climbing is absolutely fantastic. This region of Spain deserves more recognition and I hope to continue to hear about more development in the wildly beautiful 'Green Spain'.